Tennis Knowledge Center

• What is the NTRP?
• How to Measure Grip Size
• Skill Level & Racquet Selection
• Strings
  

What is the NTRP?

The NTRP rating system is used to match tennis players of comparable skill levels so they can get the most enjoyment out of  matches, group lessons, leagues, and tournaments.

For most situations, you can rate yourself. Read the criteria below and imagine you're  competing against a player of the same ability and gender as yourself. Once you identify a level that best describes your abilities, check that you meet most or all of the criteria of the skill levels lower than the one you have selected as your rating. If you have difficulty choosing between two levels, go with the higher rating. Results based on past participation in USTA sanctioned tournaments and leagues can also be used to determine your NTRP rating. Remember, ratings are not permanent but can be adjusted based on your play and match results.

To participate in USTA leagues, your self-rating must be confirmed by an official NTRP verifier. If you belong to a tennis club, one of the staff pros is usually a verifier.

1.0
This player is just starting to play tennis

1.5
This player has limited experience and is still working primarily on getting the ball into play

2.0
FOREHAND: Incomplete swing; lacks directional intent
BACKHAND: Avoids backhands; erratic contact; grip problems; incomplete swing
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Incomplete service motion; double faults common; toss is inconsistent; return of serve erratic
VOLLEY: Reluctant to play net; avoids BH; lacks footwork
PLAYING STYLE: Familiar with basic positions for singles and doubles play; frequently out of position

2.5
FOREHAND: Form developing; prepared for moderately paced shots
BACKHAND: Grip and preparation problems; often chooses to hit FH instead of BH
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Attempting a full swing; can get the ball in play at slow pace; inconsistent toss; can return slow paced serve
VOLLEY: Uncomfortable at net especially on the BH side; frequently uses FH racket face on BH volleys
SPECIAL SHOTS: Can lob intentionally but with little control; can make contact on overheads
PLAYING STYLE: Can sustain a short rally of slow pace; weak court coverage; usually remains in the initial doubles position

3.0
FOREHAND: Fairly consistent with some directional intent; lacks depth control
BACKHAND: Frequently prepared; starting to hit with fair consistency on moderate shots
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Developing rhythm; little consistency when trying for power; second serve is often considerably slower than first serve; can return serve with fair consistency
VOLLEY: Consistent FH volley; inconsistent BH volley, has trouble with low and wide shots
SPECIAL SHOTS: Can lob consistently on moderate shots
PLAYING STYLE: Consistent on medium-paced shots; most common doubles formation is still one-up, one-back; approaches net when play dictates but weak in execution

3.5
FOREHAND: Good consistency and variety on moderate shots; good directional control; developing spin
BACKHAND: Hitting with directional control on moderate shots; has difficulty on high or hard shots; returns difficult shot defensively
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Starting to serve with control and some power; developing spin; can return serve consistently with directional control on moderate shots
VOLLEY: More aggressive net play; some ability to cover side shots; uses proper footwork; can direct FH volleys; controls BH volley but with little offense; difficulty in putting volleys away
SPECIAL SHOTS: Consistent overhead on shots within reach; developing approach shots, drop shots; and half volleys; can place the return of most second serves
PLAYING STYLE: Consistency on moderate shots with directional control; improved court coverage; starting to look for the opportunity to come to the net; developing teamwork in doubles

4.0
FOREHAND: Dependable; hits with depth and control on moderate shots; may try to hit too good a placement on a difficult shot
BACKHAND: Player can direct the ball with consistency and depth on moderate shots; developing spin
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Places both first and second serves; frequent power on first serve; uses spin; dependable return of serve; can return with depth in singles and mix returns in doubles
VOLLEY: Depth and control on FH volley; can direct BH volleys but usually lacks depth; developing wide and low volleys on both sides of the body
SPECIAL SHOTS: Can put away easy overheads; can poach in doubles; follows aggressive shots to the net; beginning to finish point off; can hit to opponent's weaknesses; able to lob defensively on setups; dependable return of serve
PLAYING STYLE: Dependable ground strokes with directional control and depth demonstrated on moderate shots; not yet playing good percentage tennis; teamwork in doubles is evident; rallies may still be lost due to impatience

4.5
FOREHAND: Very dependable; uses speed and spin effectively; controls depth well; tends to overhit on difficult shots; offensive on moderate shots
BACKHAND: Can control direction and depth but may break down under pressure; can hit power on moderate shots
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Aggressive serving with limited double faults; uses power and spin; developing offense; on second serve frequently hits with good depth and placement; frequently hits aggressive service returns; can take pace off with moderate success in doubles
VOLLEY: Can handle a mixed sequence of volleys; good footwork; has depth and directional control on BH; developing touch; most common error is still overhitting
SPECIAL SHOTS: Approach shots hit with good depth and control; can consistently hit volleys and overheads to end the point; frequently hits aggressive service returns
PLAYING STYLE: More intentional variety in game; is hitting with more pace; covers up weaknesses well; beginning to vary game plan according to opponent; aggressive net play is common in doubles; good anticipation; beginning to handle pace

5.0
FOREHAND: Strong shot with control, depth, and spin; uses FH to set up offensive situations; has developed good touch; consistent on passing shots
BACKHAND: Can use BH as an aggressive shot with good consistency; has good direction and depth on most shots; varies spin
SERVE/RETURN OF SERVE: Serve is placed effectively with the intent of hitting to a weakness or developing an offensive situation; has a variety of serves to rely on; good depth, spin, and placement on most second serves to force weak return or set up next shot; can mix aggressive and off-paced service returns with control, depth, and spin
VOLLEY: Can hit most volleys with depth, pace, and direction; plays difficult volleys with depth; given opportunity, volley is often hit for a winner
SPECIAL SHOTS: Approach shots and passing shots are hit with pace and a high degree of effectiveness; can lob offensively; overhead can be hit from any position; hits mid-court volley with consistency; can mix aggressive and off-paced service returns
PLAYING STYLE: Frequently has an outstanding shot or attribute around which his game is built; can vary game plan according to opponent; this player is 'match wise,' plays percentage tennis, and 'beats himself' less than the 4.5 player; solid teamwork in doubles is evident; game breaks down mentally and physically more often than the 5.5 player

5.5
This player can hit dependable shots in stress situations; has developed good anticipation; can pick up cues from such things as opponent's toss, body position, backswing, preparation; first and second serves can be depended on in stress situations and can be hit offensively at any time; can analyze and exploit opponent's weaknesses; has developed power and /or consistency as a major weapon; can vary strategies and style of play in a competitive situation.

6.0 to 7.0
These players will generally not need NTRP ratings. Rankings or past rankings will speak for themselves. The 6.0 player typically has had intensive training for national tournament competition at the junior level and collegiate levels and has obtained a sectional and/or national ranking. The 6.5 player has a reasonable chance of succeeding at the 7.0 level and has extensive satellite tournament experience. The 7.0 is a world class player who is committed to tournament competition on the international level and whose major source of income is tournament prize winnings.

How to Measure Grip Size

In your selection of a racquet, it is crucial that you also select the correct grip size. It is important to your game and health that you purchase a racquet, or modify a racquet you already own, to suit your sizing needs. A grip too small will have you gripping the racquet too tightly to keep it from twisting in your hand, causing accelerated fatigue in your arm and shoulder, and may lead to tennis elbow. If the grip is too large, constantly trying to wrap your hand around the grip will cause pain in your forearm and biceps, as well as hinder your game. Fortunately, it is very easy to measure your appropriate grip size.

Adult tennis racquets come in four major grip sizes. They range from 4 and 1/4, to 4 and 5/8. The smallest made is 4.0, but is not available in all racquet models.

If you do not have a racquet:
Use a ruler to measure the distance from the bottom lateral crease of your palm, to the top of your ring finger. The measurement should yield the actual size of a racquet grip: 4 inches and ¼, 4 inches and 3/8, and so on.

If you have a racquet:
Hold the racquet using an Eastern forehand grip. This means that your palm is against the widest bevel of the grip. Holding the racquet this way, the face of the racquet will be vertical. If the grip is the correct size, you should be able to place your non-hitting hand's index finger in the space between your ring finger and palm and achieve a snug fit. If there is too much space, the grip is too big. If you cannot fit your finger in the space at all, the grip is too small.

If you are unsure about a grip size, or on the cusp between two sizes, remember that you can always have a grip professionally built up in the future. Building a grip will traditionally add about 1/8'' to the handle size. Or, adding an over grip will typically enlarge the grip by about 1/16".

Skill Level and Racquet Selection

The most important thing to start with is your skill level. Are you a beginner, novice, or expert tennis player? The differences in your tennis ability will make all the difference in the world in the purchasing of tennis equipment.

The International Tennis Federation has a rating chart that lists beginning USA players with a 1.0 player rating, novice players with a 3.5 rating, and expert players with a 7.0 rating. Players are rated based upon power, control, and consistency of serves, returns, and volleys; as well as competitive experience (i.e. tournaments).

By knowing your ranking you can begin to understand what type of racquet you should play with. Beginning players with a 1.0-2.5 ranking should focus on racquets that provide power over control, as their forehands and backhands are in need of a more powerful racquet presence to compensate for lack of playing experience. Some racquets designed for this skill level would be the Wilson Triad Series or the Volkl Catapult 1, 2, or 3. These racquets are extremely powerful and forgiving. Often referred to as “power racquets” these racquet models have oversized heads, are head-heavy, and are very lightweight. These power racquets are designed for players with short/compact swings that need the racquet to provide the power.

Novice players with a 3.0-5.0 ranking should primarily focus on racquets that provide a mixture of both power and control as their game is improving at a steady pace. The racquet we recommend for this skill level is the Babolat Pure Drive which is by far the best racquet on the market right now. The Pure Drive racquet is the one used by Former U.S. Open Champion Andy Roddick as well as a multitude of other top ATP and WTA professionals. It is the #1 selling racquet in the United States and for good reason; it gives just as much power as it does control.

Expert players with a 5.5-7.0 ranking should focus their attention strictly to racquets designed for control. Because of their expertise in all aspects of the game these players need racquets that give maximum touch and feel. These racquets are usually heavier in weight, have smaller head sizes, are desgined for very competitive club and team players, and are head-light. Thus, the player must provide the power source, while the racquet offers control.

Strings

Many people spend a lot of time and money trying to find the perfect tennis racquet. Unfortunately, after finding this racquet these people often grab the cheapest string available and have someone install it at an arbitrary tension. Don't make this mistake. The type of tennis string you use and the tension at which it is installed is equally or perhaps more important than the type of racquet you use. The following information is intended to help you learn about the various types of string available, and to help you select the best string and tension for your game.

String Materials
There are four key materials with which string is made: natural gut, nylon, polyester, and Kevlar. String may be made almost exclusively with one of these materials, or may be a combination of two or more types of material. Each has its own set of strengths and weaknesses, as will be discussed below.

If money is not a consideration, buy natural gut (animal intestines). Practically all touring pros use natural gut, and essentially everyone agrees that a fresh set of gut strings outperform any other type, hands down. Gut strings have the best feel (great for preventing or limiting injuries like tennis elbow) and also provide the most power. Additionally, gut retains its high level of performance throughout its lifetime, which is unusual for tennis string. This all sounds good, but there is a reason why only a small fraction of recreational players use gut. First of all, it's expensive. A set of gut string generally ranges from $20 (for Bow Brand) to as much as $40 (for Babolat brand), excluding installation. In addition, it doesn't last long. The lifetime depends on your playing habits, but as an example, pros can break a fresh set of gut string within a couple hours of installation. Lastly, gut is delicate in that exposure to the elements can ruin it instantly. For example, if you're out playing tennis when it starts raining, the water will destroy your string job. Humidity is also bad.

Nylon (sometimes called synthetic gut) is the most popular type of string. Approximately 98% of recreational players use it. It offers good feel and performance without the hefty price of natural gut. There are several different blends and constructions, giving a wide variety of feel and price. At the top are strings like Gamma's Live Wire or Wilson's NXT and Sensation which cost almost as much as low grade natural gut, but perform like it as well. You can find very cheap nylon string but, in general, you'll get what you pay for. The high-end nylons are easier on the arm, although nothing shields from injury as well as natural gut. Nylon string generally has a longer lifetime than natural gut, but shorter than polyester and Kevlar.

One step below nylon performance-wise is polyester. Surprisingly polyester got a lot of attention in 2000-2001 as several ATP pros tried it out in hopes of finding a durable alternative to gut. Polyester string has little to offer in terms of feel, power, and spin-potential and is harsh on the arm. In addition, after a racquet is strung with polyester it tends to lose quite a bit of the original tension. For this reason, many players increase tension 3-5 pounds when switching to polyester. Despite the seemingly unending list of negatives, polyester still has its supporters.

The most durable string made is Kevlar. Unless you are a chronic string breaker, use of Kevlar string is highly discouraged. It is very stiff, provides minimal power, and can be harmful to the arm and wrist. If you insist on using Kevlar, we advise dropping the tension around 10% to counter the added stiffness.

String Thickness
Tennis string comes in several different gauges. The lower the gauge the thicker, the higher the gauge the thinner. The thickest string sold is 15 gauge which has a diameter of 1.41 to 1.49 millimeters, while the thinnest string typically found is 19 gauge (thinner string has been made) which has a diameter of 1 to 1.1 millimeters. An L (for light) is used to denote half gauges. For example, 17L is between 17 and 18 gauge, and 16L is between 16 and 17 gauge. All else equal, thick strings last longer but have less feel and less power. In addition to added power and feel, thinner string “digs” into the ball more enhancing spin potential. If you can afford the shortened lifetime, thinner strings are the way to go.

String Tension
The tension is the amount of force used to “pull” the strings when they are tied into the racquet, and is typically given in pounds. The higher the tension the tighter, and the less flexible the strings will be. This results in a stiffer feel with a lower power level. Looser strings (lower tensions) provide more power and a softer, more comfortable touch, but are detrimental to a players’ depth control (ability to control how far the ball travels when hit).

A racquet should be strung at a tension within the range specified by the manufacturer. This range is usually printed on the throat of the racquet. If you’re not sure what tension to string your racquet at, a good bet is to use the middle of the manufacturer’s recommended range. If the manufacturer recommends 50-60lbs, then try 55 lbs. If you are a hard hitter, need added depth control, and have no arm problems you might want to use a higher tension. If you want added power or a softer feel to avoid arm problems then use lower tensions.

Playability / Durability
Most string will have durability and playability ratings on the back of the package. Usually the scales go from 1 (worst) to 10 (best). The meaning of the durability rating is pretty straightforward, but what is meant by playability? I’m not sure that anyone knows exactly. It is a general word referring to the feel, and overall performance (not including durability) of the string. The problem is that what constitutes “good feel” and “good performance” is very much in the eye of the beholder. Although everyone’s taste is a little different, there are some general consensuses that make the playability rating make sense. For example, almost everyone agrees that Kevlar feels and performs bad and thus Kevlar typically receives low playability ratings.

The following tables summarize most of the information given above.